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11:12, 11 Декабрь 2022
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Древнее японское блюдо
Технология изготовления суши насчитывает более чем вековую историю. Хотя в современном обществе суши чаще всего можно встретить в меню японских ресторанов, на самом деле родиной суши являются страны Юго-Восточной Азии, такие как Лаос, Мьянма и Таиланд, где суши изготавливали еще в 4 веке до н.э. В те времена суши были термином для ферментированного мяса или рыбы, которые готовили с единственной целью долговременного хранения. Поскольку рыба не всегда была доступна в течение года, единственным способом сохранения улова на долгое время были засолка и ферментация.
Очищенную и потрошеную рыбу, а также другие морепродукты пересыпали солью и помещали в деревянную бочку, придавливая сверху тяжелым грузом. Рыба солилась в течение 10-30 дней, после чего соль полностью смывали, а рыбу просушивали в течение одного дня. Затем ее вновь укладывали в бочку между слоями риса, герметично закрывали, сверху помещали груз и оставляли до начала брожения, после чего груз сменяли легкой крышкой. Без доступа воздуха в процессе брожения риса образовывалась молочная кислота, которая препятствовала гниению и ускоряла процесс ферментации, благодаря чему приготовление суши становилось быстрее, морепродукты хранились в рисе гораздо дольше (до 2х лет), а рыба во время длительного хранения в рисе приобретала особой вкус. После окончания процесса ферментации (период от 2 до 3 месяцев в зависимости от сезона), перебродивший рис выкидывали, а в пищу употреблялась только рыба. Не случайно китайский иероглиф обозначающий суши дословно переводился как «маринованная рыба».
Записи об аналогичном методе приготовления рыбы впервые встречаются в китайских манускриптах датируемых 2 веком. Кроме того, известно, что это блюдо было не самым популярным в те времена. В 7 веке рецепт суши достиг и Японию. Ферментированные суши в старом стиле назывались нарэ-суши (nare-zushi – “спелые суши”). Для этого вида суши часто использовали пресноводную рыбу, например карпа. Суши в Подольске недорого можно заказать у нас.
В то время как в Китае суши вышло из употребления к 10 веку, в Японии популярность блюда лишь увеличивалась, а способы приготовления эволюционировали.
В 15 веке наре-суши стали делиться на два типа: хон-нарэ (hon nare – «созревший в процессе брожения») и нама-нарэ (nama-nare – «полусырые или наполовину приготовленный суши»). Хон-нарэ – это аналог нарэ-суши. Нама-нерэ, это тот же тип суши, но они изготавливаются из риса, брожение которого происходило в более короткие сроки, нежели при приготовлении хон-нарэ, в результате чего рисовые зерна не успевали разрушаться. Появление и популярность нама-нарэ суши было обусловлено нехваткой продовольствия в Японии, рис был слишком ценным продуктом, так что вместо того чтобы выбрасывать, рис стали есть вместе с рыбой. Суши нама-нарэ отличается от хон-нарэ более приятным кислым привкусом. В конце концов, нама-нерэ стали более популярными, так как готовить их было быстрее, а ферментированный рис являлся дополнительным гарниром и имел мягкий пряный вкус. Так, из способа сохранения рыбы, суши превратилось в самостоятельное блюдо.
В 17 веке японский врач Мацумото Ёсиити (Matsumoto Yoshichi), состоявший на службе четвертого сёгуна династии Токугава, ввел новую революционную технологию приготовления риса с добавлением небольшого количества уксуса. Это привело к сокращению времени ферментации до 1-2 дней и способствовало получению приятного кислого привкуса. Начинкой для суши была теперь не только рыба. Суши состоявшие из риса, приправленного уксусом, свежих, маринованных или сушеных овощей, тофу, морских водорослей и не только речной, но и морской рыбы получили название хая суши (haya-zushi – «быстрые суши»). Еще одним преимуществом нового изобретения было избавление от неприятного резкого запаха, которым обладало нарэ-суши, которые, впрочем, до сих пор считаются деликатесом.
К 18 веку самые разные виды суши повсеместно продавались в магазинах, а в лавках и закусочных к суши начали подавать васаби и различные соусы.
Появление новой тенденции изготовления суши подтолкнуло к развитию в отдельных районах Японии новых видов суши. В начале 19 века мобильные продуктовые лавки стали доминирующим типом общественного питания. Именно тогда повар по имени Ханая Йохей (Hanaya Yohei) открыл свою собственную закусочную и представил суши в новом стиле нигири-суши (nigiri-zushi – «суши сделанные руками»). Этот вид суши известен также как Эдомае суши (Edomae-zushi – «суши перед заливом Эдо»), который происходит от названия региона Эдо, который теперь называется Токио, именно там Ханая Йохей открыл свою лавку. Нигири-суши представляет собой шарик риса и ломтик сырой рыбы. Этот вид суши изначально создавался как недорогой фаст-фуд, призванный удовлетворить голод оживленных улиц Эдо. Поскольку в те времена еще не было подобия современного холодильника, для предотвращения порчи, Ханая слегка мариновал свежую рыбу в соевом соусе или уксусе. Это было весьма целесообразно, так как люди с опаской относятся к сырой рыбе и, к примеру, не любят жирное мясо сырого тунца, потому что оно быстро разлагается. Еще одной разновидностью Эдомаэ были чираши-суши (Edomae chirashizushi – смешанные суши в стиле Эдо), при приготовлении этого вида суши сырые ингредиенты искусно выкладывали на рисе.
Так как время приготовления суши сократился до нескольких минут, новое блюдо быстро завоевало популярность. Альтернативой Эдомае суши стали суши стиля Кансай (Kansai-style Sushi), появившиеся в районе Кансай города Осака. Одной из разновидностей кансай суши являются гомоку-суши (Gomoku-zushi – смешанные суши в стиле Кансай), такие суши состоят в основном из вареного приправленного риса, смешанного с разнообразными ингредиентами и уложенного в красивые декоративные съедобные коробочки или глубокие чашки. Сегодня мозаичные суши стиля Кансай очень популярны в Японии, однако за ее пределами большим спросом пользуются нигири-суши. Многие другие разновидности суши стиля Кансай, такие как оши-суши (Oshi-zushi – «прессованные суши»), инари-суши (Inari-zushi – «фаршированные суши») фукуса-суши (Fukusa-zushi – фаршированные суши в мешочке из омлета) и многие другие по-прежнему популярны в Японии и во всем мире.
Поскольку суши было легко и быстро готовить, в 19 веке это блюдо стало основной питания для большинства японских семей. Интересен тот факт, что во время антракта в театрах, суши продавались в качестве закуски так же, как сейчас в кинотеатрах продается попкорн.
В конце 1970-х годов, японский бизнес начал развиваться в Соединенных Штатах Америки, все больше открывалось суши-ресторанов для обслуживания японских бизнесменов живущих в США. Кроме того, суши-повара обслуживающие местных японцев, старались ввести суши в рацион американцев, но было трудно убедить людей попробовать блюдо с сырой рыбой. Популяризации японского блюда способствовало то, что рекомендации иностранцев побудило шеф-поваров отойти от традиционных видов суши и привнести в рецепт множество новых ингредиентов в самых разных сочетаниях и формах.
В двухтысячных годах во всем мире стал популярным новый вид суши – Кавари суши (Kawari-zushi – «нетрадиционные суши»). Кавари суши – это суши-ролл с нетрадиционной для суши начинкой. Это например ролл Калифорния (California roll) с авакадо, ролл Филадельфия (Philadelphia roll) сделанный со сливочным сыром и копченым лососем, острый ролл (spicy roll) и др. Роллы стали идеальным вариантом для людей, не желающих есть суши с сырой рыбой и поэтому завоевали огромную популярность.
То, что начиналось как средство сохранения рыбы превратились в многомиллиардную промышленность с тысячи и тысячи суши-ресторанов во всех странах мира. Если вы никогда не ели суши, Вы, вероятно, будет е удивлены тем, как это вкусно. Суши имеет приятный, легкий вкус, который не оставит вас равнодушным.
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